In the Heart of Mustang, Riding the Wind Horses
There are journeys that leave a mark on your skin. Not because of fatigue, but for the beauty that bursts around you, day after day. That’s what it feels like to ride through the Mustang region, a remote area nestled in the northern hills of Nepal, along ancient trails once trodden by traders, pilgrims, and nomads.
Our adventure begins in Jomsom, a mountain town perched over 2,700 meters above sea level, suspended between the modern world and Himalayan spirituality. Here, we meet our travel companions: the Mustang horses, small, strong, and incredibly sure-footed, even on the most challenging terrain. Quiet creatures, born for altitude, raised among wind and stone.
The first stop is Kagbeni, a village that seems drawn from a Tibetan legend. Stone houses, barley fields swaying in the breeze, and the mighty Kali Gandaki River flowing nearby. It’s the southern gateway to Upper Mustang, and even here you can feel the energy of the place — whispered prayers and mountains that seem to listen.
We ride up to Muktinath, one of Nepal’s most sacred places and a popular pilgrimage site. Here, Hinduism and Buddhism coexist peacefully, among temples, sacred flames, and purifying water springs. The altitude is felt, but our horses move calmly, accustomed to these heights. In the saddle, our breathing slows, our vision widens. The mind clears.
After crossing a mountain pass close to 4,000 meters, we begin our descent toward the secluded village of Lubra, a hidden gem tucked in the valleys. Here lives one of the last remaining communities of the Bön tradition, the ancient pre-Buddhist religion of the Himalayas. It’s a place out of time, where hospitality is genuine and the nights are lit by stars.
Finally, we reach Marpha, known for its apple orchards and rarefied atmosphere. Its cobbled alleys, the scent of spices, and the flat rooftops where apples dry in the sun all speak of peace and resilience. Marpha welcomes you gently — the perfect place to close our circular journey and return, slowly, to Jomsom.
But something has changed.
You don’t simply cross Mustang — Mustang crosses you. It teaches you slowness, respect, and how to truly listen. And those silent little mountain horses stay etched in your memory, symbols of a journey that goes far beyond geography.
A journey that stays within you.For more information about the itinerary, visit www.horsevoyage.it and book your journey to the Mustang District: a horseback adventure in the last “forbidden kingdom.”
Sara Giavarini
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